By Michael J. McGroarty
Perry, Ohio Copyright 2011
Wanted! People Who Would Like to Get Paid for Growing
Small Plants at Home Click here.
Growing Japanese Maple trees from seed is a lot easier than most people think. However, it is important to understand that there are more than 250 different cultivars of the Japanese Maple tree, and my purpose through this website is to introduce you to as many of these different cultivars as I can. Or more appropriately, as we can, because the purpose of this web site is to develop a community of Japanese Maple Lovers and collectors.
Japanese Maples come in all kinds of different sizes, different shapes, and have a variety of different growing characteristics. They also have as many different variations of leaf size and shape as you can imagine. And that’s why the Japanese Maple is by far, one of the most versatile plants you can add to your landscape. The different varieties are so unique that you can easily use several of them in a residential or commercial landscape without the slightest hint of redundancy.
However, all of this tends to complicate the process of propagating Japanese Maples because very few of these numerous cultivars will come true to the parent plant when grown from seed. So . . . you might ask, how do I go about propagating a Japanese Maple?
There are a number of methods which include growing them from seed, grafting a piece of the desired variety onto a Japanese Maple seedling, and budding. Budding is really just another form of grafting, except instead of using a small cutting from the desired parent plant, you work with a single bud from the desired plant. Some Japanese Maples are also grown via tissue culture which involves a laboratory and test tube like conditions.
You and I at home? Let’s stick to the basics of growing from seed, grafting and budding. In order to graft or bud, you must first have a Japanese Maple seedling that you can use as the rootstock. So for the remainder of this article we’ll discuss growing from seed.
The majority of the Japanese Maples you’ll encounter in your daily travels are from the Acer palmatum family, so that’s what we’ll discuss in this article. First allow me to explain exactly what Acer palmatum means in terms that you and I can understand. All plants have a common name and a Latin name. The Latin name is really the most dependable way to identify a plant because many plants end up with numerous common names, depending upon who you are talking to. But there should always be just one Latin name.
So let’s break down the Latin name Acer palmatum. Acer is the generic name, or the genus, and Acer is used to identify any maple tree. Palmatum is the species name and in this case means that the maple tree being identified is from the Japanese Maple family. Acer palmatum means Japanese Maple. Next we add the variety to the Latin name. As in; Acer palmatum dissectum. Any Japanese Maple that has a variety of dissectum in it’s name is a mounded, low growing tree with leaves that look like they’ve been dissected. Commonly called ‘cut leaf’ or ‘lace leaf’. Acer palmatum dissectum. To the end of that we’ll add the cultivar name, as in Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Crimson Queen’.
There are a lot of Acers, a lot of Acer palmatums, and a lot of Acer palmatum dissectums. But there is only one Acer palmatum dissectum ‘Crimson Queen’. That describes a very specific kind of Japanese Maple and that particular variety, as with all specific varieties, can only be reproduced through a means of asexual reproduction.
Sexual reproduction is what happens naturally. A seed falls to the ground, germinates and a Japanese Maple seedling emerges. Of course it’s not quite that simple, and I’ll explain how to make the process more predictable. Asexual reproduction is any form of propagation that is not natural. Rooting cuttings, budding, grafting or reproducing plants via tissue culture are all forms of asexual reproduction.
So . . . with all of that explained, let’s discuss growing Japanese Maples from seed and hopefully through my long winded explanation you now understand that when growing just about any plant from seed, the results are not always predictable. Much like human reproduction via sexual means, we all look similar, yet each and every one of us is different.
With plants there are advantages and disadvantages to those mixed results. When growing from seed you never really know for sure what you are going to get. But in the case of Japanese Maples, you at least know that if you sow seeds of Acer palmatum you’ll get Acer palmatum seedlings. They may not have that beautiful deep red color, but it’s almost certain that your seedlings, even if the leaves are as green as grass, they’ll make good quality root stock trees for grafting or budding. They will be compatible with any cultivar of Acer palmatum that you’d like to graft or bud onto them.
We also know that if you collect your Japanese Maple seeds from a tree with deep red leaves, there’s a really strong chance that many of your seedlings will have leaves that are deep red in color. They won’t all have deep red color, some of them will be green and some will show different shades of red. If you collect your seeds from a Japanese Maple that has green leaves, chances are most, if not all of your seedlings will have green leaves.
Now this is important because a lot of people get confused with this. ‘Bloodgood’ is a named Japanese Maple cultivar. It is so named because it has deep red leaves that hold their color all summer long. At some point in time all ‘Bloodgood’ Japanese Maples will put out a crop of seeds. You can collect those seeds and grow them with the instructions I will give you below. But no matter what, no matter how red the leaves on your seedlings are, they are not, and cannot be called ‘Bloodgood’ because they will have been produced via sexual reproduction and are not identical clones of the parent plant.
Some growers and or vendors twist this a little by calling them ‘Bloodgood’ seedlings, but I don’t like and don’t agree with this practice at all. They are not ‘Bloodgood’ and that name should not be used when describing them. What they really are is Acer palmatum ‘Atropurpureum’ which is a Japanese Maple seedling with red leaves. So, when growing Japanese Maples from seed you’ll get one of two different plants. Acer palmatum, or Acer palmatum ‘Atropurpurpeum’. The first will have green leaves, the second will have red leaves.
That’s a lot of words, but it is intended to give you a good foundational knowledge of Japanese Maple propagation. Now let’s get to the basics of growing them from seed.
Japanese Maple trees flower in the spring. Of course the flowers don’t look anything like a flower from a distance, but viewed closely they very much resemble a tiny but beautiful bloom. For the most part they are inconspicuous and usually go unnoticed. But as with all plants you first need a bloom, then some sort of fruit, then within the fruit you find the seeds. On any kind of maple tree, the seeds are trapped in a winged seed pod that most of us as kids called “helicopters” because the pods spin like the blades of a helicopter as they fall from the tree.
After the tree flowers in the spring the seed pods begin to form. You must leave them on the tree all summer, into the fall to allow them to mature. If you collect the seeds too soon the embryo inside of the seeds will not be completely mature and the seeds will not be viable. The rule of thumb is to leave the seed pods on the trees until they start to turn brown and can be removed from the tree fairly easily with little resistance. Here in northern Ohio, zone 5 this usually happens around mid to late October. If you wait too long you’ll lose out because once the seeds start falling it happens quickly. If you find a bunch of seeds on the ground by all means pick them up, they are still perfectly fine and viable.
Once you’ve collected your seeds the goal is to sow them and get them to germinate. But this is a little tricky. Not at all difficult, but you do have to trick the seeds with a process that is called stratification. Japanese Maple seeds have a really hard outer coating that protects the embryo. In order for the seeds to germinate you have to take some steps to soften that outer coating, so water and oxygen can find it’s way inside of the seed.
In nature the natural process is not very efficient and it can often take up to two years, maybe longer, before the seeds actually germinate. That poses a problem because the timing might be way off, and the little tiny seedling might start emerging right before winter and have no chance at all of survival. By following one of the three different methods that I am going give you here, you will actually control when the seed germinates, thus giving you a much higher percentage of success.
Method #1 is to sow the seeds immediately after you collect them. This is a pretty simple process and it can work really well. Of course with this method you are at the mercy of Mother Nature, but it’s still quite predictable. Not sure? Do some of your seeds both ways and see for yourself which one you like the best.
Where do you get Japanese Maple seeds? You can buy them if you want. There is a lot of debate about the quality of purchased Japanese Maple seeds, and the quality can and will vary from vendor to vendor. There are all kinds of vendors online that sell seeds. My goal here at Japanese Maple Lovers is to put together a list of seed suppliers you can buy from if can’t find any seed locally. What’s really important is to get fresh seed, and if you want your seedlings to have red leaves you have to know the details of the tree from which the seed is collected. That’s why finding your own local source is the best option.
With that said, once you set your mind on growing Japanese Maples from seed, you will start seeing all kinds of large Japanese Maples in your hometown. You might see these trees in local parks, cemeteries and in peoples yards. You must ask permission to collect seeds from any tree that you do not own, but usually most people are happy to allow you to collect seeds from their tree. However, since you’ll probably want to go back year after year, you should gift them with a few of your seedlings. Maybe even gift them with a small Japanese Maple that you’ve purchased, and by all means after you collect the seeds send them a thank you card and possibly a gift card for a local restaurant. If you do this, you are likely to have a perpetual supply of Japanese Maple seeds for a long time to come.
Method #1
Method number one is good for colder zones like zones 4, 5, 6 and probably zone 7. Not sure what cold hardiness zone you’re in? Just do a Google search for “cold hardiness zone map”.
1. Immediately after you collect your seeds dump them out on a work table. One by one pick the seeds up and break the wing off. Discard the wing and keep the part that contains the seed. How do you know for sure which part is which? The wing looks very much like the wing of a large insect. It has veins and it’s quite brittle. The part that contains the seed obviously has a bulge and is not at all fragile. Don’t be overly concerned about whether or not you broke off enough wing. What’s really important is that you keep the part that contains the seed. If there’s still a little wing attached that’s not a problem.
2. Put the seeds in a container that will hold hot water. Run the water from your faucet until it’s quite warm, but not so hot that you can’t put your hand under it. But close to that hot. Pour the warm to hot water over the seeds and just let them soak in the water for 24 hours. At first the seeds will float, but eventually they’ll almost all sink to the bottom. The ones that never sink are probably not viable, but it won’t hurt to sow them with the rest. Maybe they just didn’t get wet enough to sink.
3. Once the seeds have soaked in the water for 24 hours pour off the water and spread the seeds out on a paper towel. You can allow them to dry overnight to make them easier to work with. Next fill a flat with a good seed starting mix that drains well. I suggest mixing some additional Perlite into the mix to make sure it will drain well.
If you don’t have a flat just go to the dollar store and buy a plastic dish pan, and drill many 1/2″ holes in the bottom so any water that drains to the bottom can escape from the dish pan. The holes you drill should be no farther apart than one inch.
4. Sow the seeds on top of the seed starting mix and press them down lightly so they are embedded in the growing medium. Then lightly sprinkle a covering of seed starting mix over top of the seeds. The light covering of mix should be no more than 1/4″ deep. 3/16″ deep would be ideal.
5. Next cut a piece of hardware cloth (heavy screen) so it fits tightly inside the dish pan. The purpose of the hardware cloth is to keep mice, chipmunks or other critters from digging in the dish pan and eating your seeds. The openings in the hardware cloth can be anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″. Consider using light wire, twist ties, or zip ties to fasten the hardware cloth to the top of the dish pan so the critters can’t pull it up to get to the seeds. The hardware cloth does not have to be suspended above the soil in the dish pan, because come spring you will remove the hardware cloth long before your seeds have a chance to germinate. So just lay the hardware cloth on the growing medium. The fasteners are only to keep the hardware cloth from being blown out or removed.
6. Now it’s time to set the dish pan and Japanese Maple seeds outside in the elements. Weren’t expecting that were you? It’s important to understand that Japanese Maple seeds require a lengthy treatment of cold before they will germinate. It’s part of the natural process. So what we are doing here in method #1 is trying to closely mimic the natural process, but we are better controlling some of the environmental conditions so the results are more predictable.
When deciding where to place your dish pan of seeds in your yard, select a place that is out of the wind and hopefully in a spot where dogs, skunks or raccoons won’t disturb it or tip it over. The goal is not to keep it from freezing. It can and will freeze, and that’s fine. It might stay frozen all winter. That’s not a problem. Snow cover is also fine. Snow is actually an excellent insulator and would be really good for your seeds. Freezing won’t hurt them, but it does slow down the stratification process. So, if they were naturally covered with snow for long periods of time during the winter chances are the growing medium would not freeze, or would not stay frozen. That would be perfect. Just set the flat or dish pan out in your selected location and forget about it.
7. As spring starts to arrive check on your container to make sure nothing is sprouting yet. As soon as the seeds start to sprout you need to remove the hardware cloth, but you don’t want to remove it too soon. In the early spring, just about the time the leaves start to come out, remove the hardware cloth from your growing container. At this time make sure the container is in a shaded location. About 40% to 50% filtered sunlight would be ideal. Water the growing medium as necessary, but don’t keep it soaking wet. It’s important the growing medium be allowed to dry and warm up before you water again. The seeds need some water, but should not be soaking wet. But more importantly the seeds need to be warm come spring so they start germinating. That’s why you should water only when needed so the growing medium stays warm.
8. You’ve done all you can. Now it’s up to Mother Nature. Be patient. Growing Japanese Maples from seed is a slow but highly rewarding process. In two to three weeks if the weather is warm, you should see seedlings start to pop up. The first set of leaves they produce are called cotyledons. The cotyledons will not look at all like Japanese Maple leaves. Cotyledons are actually part of the embryo from within the seeds and help to nourish the little seedling until the true leaves appear and take over. Once the true leaves appear the cotyledons wither and disappear. At that point photosynthesis begins and your little seedlings are well on their way to becoming beautiful little trees, each with their own unique characteristics.
9. At some point your Japanese Maple seedlings will have to be transplanted so they have more room to grow and develop. You can do that as soon as they germinate by simply picking them out of the flat with tweezers and re-planting them in a flat where they’ll have more room, or you can transplant them into a cell pack. Cell packs are the flimsy, lightweight trays that annual flowers are grown in. Cell packs are nice because you can later remove the seedlings from the cell pack in nice little root balls. Cell packs are tapered so plants can be easily removed without disturbing the roots.
Or you can just leave the seedlings in the flat you started with, then at the end of the growing season when they are dormant remove and separate them. Even if they are really close together that’s usually not a problem for the first growing season. Throughout the first growing season make sure your seedlings only get about 50% sunlight, since direct sun will burn their leaves. After the first season I plant mine out in direct sun here in zone 5. They’d probably benefit from at least some sun and if you are in a warmer zone you should consider some shade. The older they get the more sun tolerant they are, but Japanese Maples in general take a bit of beating in the direct sun. Usually the damage isn’t serious, just some browning around the edges. All of the Japanese Maples in my yard and even the ones in the nursery are in full sun. Only the young ones get a little protection with me.
Method # 2
1. In this method you will collect the seeds in fall just as they start to turn brown. Collect the seeds simply by pulling them from the tree. They should come off the tree easily. Place the seeds in a paper bag and store them in a cool dry place. A basement or garage is fine. You are not going to do anything with those seeds for a few months, they’ll be fine in the paper bag as long as they are dry.
2. Establish the “target date” that you can safely plant your seedlings outside. Here in northern Ohio, zone 5 we are usually safe from frost after May 15th, so that is my target date. So I will count backwards from May 15th, counting back 100 days. That takes me back to February 5th. On February 5th I will retrieve my seeds from the paper bag, break off the wing as describe above and soak them in warm to hot water for 24 hours as described in method #1.
3. After soaking in water for 24 hours you need to mix the seeds with a combination of sand and peat moss, or a seed starting mix that contains some extra perlite. You will also need a large zip-lock type freezer bag, but of course that depends on how many seeds you have. Fill the plastic bag about 1/2 to 3/4 full with the growing medium to make sure have the right amount. Dump the growing medium out of the bag into a bowl. Pour the seeds into the bowl on top of the growing medium and mix them together with your hands. Next sprinkle some water on the mix and mix it some more. You want the growing medium damp, but not soaking wet. After mixing the seeds and the growing medium thoroughly pour the combination back into the zip bag.
4. Press down on the bag to force most of the air out, then poke about three holes near the top of the bag for just a little ventilation. Place the bag in your refrigerator. Don’t put it way to the back of the refrigerator because it’s usually colder back there and the medium might freeze. Although freezing won’t hurt the seeds, it will slow down the stratification process.
The Japanese Maple seeds need a 90 day cold treatment to initiate the germination process. Ideally they should between 38 degrees F. and 50 degrees F. In other words, about the same temperature as the main area of your refrigerator where you keep your milk. From time to time check on your seeds and make sure you do not have a mold problem. Some people add a little fungicide to the mix from the beginning to prevent mold, but I don’t think it’s necessary. Should some mold develop just add some fungicide at that time. Brand doesn’t matter, just a general fungicide from the garden store. Use only a small amount of fungicide.
5. After 90 days in the refrigerator remove the bag and inspect it for germinating seeds. If you see little sprouts pick those seeds out of the bag and plant them in a flat of seed starting medium. Just poke a little hole in the soil, press the seed into the hole and leave the sprout sticking out. If there are no sprouting seeds, or few sprouting seeds just leave the bag out on the counter at room temperature and within a week you should see more and more seeds sprouting in the bag. Remove the sprouted seeds and leave the bag at room temperature until no more seeds seem to be sprouting.
Do not discard the mix in the bag because there are probably seeds in there that are going to take longer to sprout, so just pour the mix into a flat and place it outside where it’s warm. Keep the flat watered but not soaking wet.
6. The sprouted seedlings that you planted in the flat are going to need some sunlight as they grow so you’ll either have to give them some artificial light for a few weeks or move them outside into a shaded area. They need a little sunlight, but direct sun will burn them up. From there just care for them as you would any seedling.
Method # 3
1. This method is very much like method number two, but with this method you soak the seeds for 24 hours. Change the water, using more warm water, soak them for another 24 hours, change the water and soak them for another 24 hours. So that’s a total of 72 hours of soaking.
2. After soaking spread the seeds out on a brown paper towel, you know, the kind that you find it restrooms at public buildings. The brown towels are just about the right consistency, but any paper towel will work. I’d say the cheaper brands would be better for this purpose. Spread the seeds out in a row on the towel then fold the towel over top of the seeds a couple of times. Dampen the paper towel and place it in a plastic bag and place the bag in the refrigerator for 90 days as described above. After 90 days start checking on the seeds just as described above.
3. The seeds will sprout inside of the paper towel and you can pick them off the towel, or cut the towel around the seed. If some of the towel is stuck to the seed that’s fine, just plant the seed with a little towel stuck to it. Some people have told me they use toilet paper because it falls apart and the sprouted seeds are easier to harvest.
So, there you have three different methods. They all work. Pick one or try two, or all three. But by all means do at least one, don’t allow indecision to hold you back.
Have fun growing Japanese Maples from seed!
You never know what you are going to get, maybe the next really, really interesting variety.
If you have enjoyed and found this article useful I hope you will spread the word about JapaneseMapleLovers.com. We are a community of people who love and collect Japanese Maples.
…not sure why you wanted my website? Maybe I’m supposed to have a website for my Backyard Growing business?
At any rate, my question is this: What is the coldest zone for Japanese Red Maple? I live in a Zone 3/borderline Zone 2 area.
Julie,
zones 2 and 3 are pretty cold for most Japanese maples. I consider most Japanese maples safe in zone 5, maybe zone 4.
So I decided I would give growing from seeds a try. It’s mid-august and I didn’t know I wasn’t supposed to pick seedlings till fall. Any way I can save these little guys ?
Anna,
Probably not, they really need to mature before you pick them.
I saw pictures of a blue maple is that a trick or s real thing? I want to grow a few for my wife’s garden.
I never heard of such a thing, probably a trick.
I believe there is a blue maple, but it was a genetic lottery to get it. If you get seeds from the tree, the seedlings will be green or red. Like most of the really gorgeous colored trees, you must splice a colored branch to a regular red or green trunk.
It’s actually a Purple Ghost. You can buy them just like any other seeds. Amazon sells them.
Robert,
You cannot grow a Purple Ghost Japanese maple from seed, or any other named variety for that matter. Yes, people sell such seeds, but there is no way that those seeds are going to produce a tree this is identical to or even close to a named variety. At best you might get a Japanese maple with Red leaves. Many will be very generic with green leaves. All named variety Japanese maple trees are grafted onto a seedling grown from seed.
I’m in some 7A.. Which method do I use.
Belinda,
Either one will work for you, I’d do some each way to see which is more successful for you.
Consider Acer ginnala, reliably hardy in z4 and z3.
This was so helpful I’m zone 5 and just picked my seeds today Aug 9th, 2019- they weren’t browned so hopefully it’s not too early 😬. Going to try the paper towel method and see what happens. Fingers crossed 🤞. But seriously this was sooooo helpful! I have the dogblood version and hope I get read leaves but we will see!
-Elizabeth
My Japanese Red Maple is thriving in Canada with winters as cold as minus 25.
My Japanese Maple Tree have a little group of fully mature seeds on one of it’s branches and it’s not even in the middle of July yet! Normally the tree have seeds in the fall, why would it produce them so early? Is it because that the “warm” winter confused the tree and made it have seeds this early? Is it a good idea to start to plant them now or wait until fall came?
My name is Jackie. I live in South East England. I bought some Japanese maple seeds called Purple Ghost which the website I bought them from displayed one in Bonsai form. I love them but don’t have a garden now. I bought ten seeds which arrived without their tails. I was told to just put them in the fridge until they begin to sprout. They have been in there since October twentieth and whilst a couple have opened no sprouting has occurred. What should I do next. It’s warmer weather from April to September. Do you think they are any good?.
Jackie,
Take them out and press them into some soil in a pot and leave the pot in where it’s warm. Should sprout soon. They should have been stored in peat or sand in the fridge.
I just ordered 4 variations of jap maple seeds . I have always loved all varieties and am going to learn to grow them . What do I need to do immediately upon them arriving . I’m in zone 7
Doug,
At this point I guess you should stratify them and go ahead and sow them in a flat after the 90 days. Your timing is not good, usually seeds are stratified starting in the fall then started indoors in February or March.
Dear Sirs,
I’m sorry if I’m wasting your time lm looking for maybe someone that can help me get or find a bag of free Japanese red maple or other colors I could use in the seed swapping groups I’m in?
Thank You for Your time and trouble
Craig,
Japanese maple seeds are not easy to come by. We have members, http://backyardgrowers.com/join, that sell them but nobody is going to give them away. There are never enough of them to go around, even when they are sold.
I have seeds in id August. Squirrels knock them off are they ok to use even though they may be early. Must like Destinie’s question above.
Ken,
Those seeds are not mature enough and will not germinate.
I would like to know this also. This year mine started dropping the seeds in early summer. Four sprouted in their own and I transferred them to pots. The rest of the seeds I collected and have them saved.
Laurie,
The sprouts that you collected more than likely were not from this year. Those were seeds that fell the previous year, went through the winter on the ground which is essential before they can germinate. The seeds that you collect during the growing season are not likely to be viable because they fell from the tree before the embryo had time to completely develop.
Any idea how many years it takes for them to become Mature Trees? And what is a lifespan of one? I’ve always loved these.
Nan,
I guess mature is an open ended question because they are always maturing. Me? I enjoy them from day one and love to watch them mature over the years. Life span? I really don’t know but I’m guessing many of mine will still be here when I am no longer. -Mike McGroarty
Hi Mike,
Could you give us a timeline for _before_ they are ‘mature’? I (a botany newbie) define ‘mature’ as being relatively hardy, less succeptible to death by over/under watering, infection, whatever…. Past the ‘infancy’ stage.
I live in an 8a hardiness zone, and did method #1. They just started germination, so I moved them to little individual pots…. I used a metal grate to protect them from critters, and that got all rusted so I thought it might be healthier if they continued in a different pot. Anyway, when can I expect them to start growing leaves? When is it safe for me to move them indoors (I want to use them for bonsai)? At what point do they become relatively hardy?
Thanks for the tips! Great website.
– Nicole
Nicole,
You should see true leaves soon. How fast they mature depends on a lot of things, mostly how happy they are in the soil they are in. You’ll know when they are strong enough to start working with bonsi.
Be careful about keeping them inside for any period of time. I’m an amateur and moved to zone 9 and a yard full of Japanese maples. I have become obsessed with growing them from seed, as well as bonsai.. I keep them outside in dappled shade year around and only bring them in for short periods of time, max one week. I gave my sister numerous seedlings and she kept trying to grow them indoors-they all perished! Stranglely, they seem to loved boggy soil conditions…
Someone gave me a tiny seedling and it has grown over the past few months to have 3 really strong sets of red leaves. My question is when can I plant it outside? It’s in a little pot in my south facing window.
Catherine,
Either now or in mid September, but in either case it needs to be in the shade for a year or two, then move only when dormant. But it does need to be in the ground before long winter so it can get rooted in.
I cut my best maple seedling grown from seed as you said just above two opposite buds and now I have a 2 year old tree with 2 leaders but the one curved out like a graft spot at a 90 degee angle and is thick and dominant,the other is growing up at a45 degree angle and is thin.The tree is ugly,I feel it is ruined by what I did! Any help?
Martin,
Just keep pruning the tree as it grows, keeping it in proportion, it will fill out nicely and you’ll be very happy with it.
How can i implan maple tree from seed.please tell me.
This year my red Japanese maple sent out a hundreds little seedlings all over my lawn! I’ve potted up a few but was wondering how best to get them to grow…as fast as possible since they are only 3 inches tall! I have a weeping lace red maple, too, but seedlings from that seem to be hard to come by. Suggestions?
Patty,
Japanese maple seedlings are slow and they really like good potting soil that is well drained. The laceleaf will make seeds eventually, but you won’t get an exact clone of the tree you have.
Hello, great article really appreciate it. I live in Puerto Rico the weather where I live is kind of unstable I’d say it is like a South Beach, FL type weather but is very rainy. Any way my question is in a tropical climate like the one I live in, which method would you recommend. I bought some seeds online and I want to know how to do this the right way I’m just a novice so what can you share with me?
How long to leave the support attached to the trunk of the tree. It’s a Japanese Maple, Acer Palmatum var, Dissectum Red Select. It’s small and it has a small dowel stake attached with green strips and staples to suppor it. I planted it in April 2013, and I love in Omaha, Nebraska. I’ve left it on because of the winds we have. Can I successfully remove the support now?
Brenda,
More than likely you can as long as the tree is stable.
Thanks for the great article Mike! do you have any tips for grafting a seedling onto some stronger roots? i’ve heard of this being done before (in the Bonsai community) for some types of maples to get a delicate tree to survive in a hardy environment.
Mark, see this page https://backyardgrowers.com/backyard-income-opportunity/how-to-graft-japanese-maple-trees/
Hi. Thanks for the article.
I have about 100 trees that sprouted this year.
They are in 3 and 4 inch pots at the moment.
What should i do with the pots in the winter?
I have an unheated greenhouse, a shed and a conservatory (which doesn’t get hot in the winter but a little bit warmer than the greenhouse and shed.
Thanks .
Simon.
Mike: My Trident Japanese Maple is spectacular, The seeds that drop in a gravel border seem to take very nicely. I live in Northern coastal Mass. (If I walk my dog we are in NH) I have a hundred of seedlings, this year the one I potted last year grew like crazy! Is there a “safe age” to plant outside for our long winters. Previously I put in the basement until they were about 2 feet tall then planted and see how they dealt with winter. Love my japanese maples, I purchased a purple ghost and its is green? What the???
Donna,
Hardy Japanese maple seedlings should be safe outside at almost any age. They are often sown in a bed then after they germinate just left in that bed through the very next winter. If you’re purple ghost is getting sunlight and is still green it might not be purple ghost at all.
I have a number of Japanese Maples in pots. There is just one long branch about 3 feet long. How do I trim to get other branches started?
Thanks for the article I found it very informative.
I am looking to buy at least 1000 seeds. Do you know a good supplier? thanks
Last year we had a couple of seedlings sprout from a red acer palmatum dissectum. We put them in pots, and the one that survived is not as finely cut as the parent, and also has wider leaves. This year it grew all season long, and continues to now, when most deciduous trees here are gearing up for winter. The astounding part is that it has put 5 feet of growth on in this one year. Only our Pacific Northwest broadleaf maples grow at that rate- none of the Japanese or Norway maples do. My question is whether from this one year we can determine its ultimate growth habit, which is obviously rapid, and seems either upright or tulip shaped, or if we need to give it another year or two before we can tell where to best locate it in the yard.
Please respond to email address, and thank you so much!
Hi Mike, I live in Smithtown, New York and it gets cold in the winter. I was just wondering about what I should do with the tiny seedlings in the winter. Should I leave them outside or should I keep them inside? I’m using the third method.
Daniel, they need to go into dormancy. if they are hardy to grow in your zone, they should be fine outside.
https://backyardgrowers.com/backyard-income-opportunity/japanese-maple-seedlings/
Mike,
How do I get multiple trunks on Japanese Maples that are low to the ground? Been growing trees from seed for years and have tried pruning and topping to achieve the result that I see on many of the trees growing in my neighborhood. Are these trees grafted? I have tried getting the effect by planting 2 or 3 seedlings together in the same pots. Can you suggest how to do this?
Larry
I have found that when you have multiple seedlings plant them very close together in a pot and put a band around them at the base. Over time they will eventually fuse together. Just be sure you don’t use anything that will cut into the tree and scar it. It will eventually be a clump style tree with multiple bases.
Mike: I am retired and have 20 acres of farmland. Would like to get started growing Japanese Maples for extra income and to also educate my grandkids on growing plants. Any advice on how to get started? Would like to start with seedlings. I live in Stark County Ohio. Thanks!
Hi Gary, I suggest you start here http://backyardgrowers.com/make-money-growing-plants/
I live in Stark County as well I live in Alliance
Hi, I live in southern ca. I have many seedling from last year and some have lost all the leaves did they die or is this what they do in winter? any help would be great!
Anyone had grown maple trees in Arizona?
Hi,
I recently retired in Maryland. Love Japanese maples has 5 beautiful one’s. However now residing in Puerto Rico. Is it possible for these them to grow in the tropical arena? Please advice.
Thank you much.
I’ve pretty much done your method 2, I planted the seeds in little containers but my house is pretty cold (64°F) so to get them to sprout I put them in my tortoise cage where it is about 84°F. Would it be best to leave the seedlings in the 84° cage with some artificial light or put it next to my cold window (it’s around 30° outside lately) to get that natural sunlight.
This would only be until spring, but advice would be great!
Hi Mike! Great article! Now I already have a couple of nice red Japanese maples growing in our yard. I want to start a bonsai and keep it indoors. What method is best, and what are some tips? Thanks!!
Hi there did you ever get your Japan maple tree going if so please tell me what you did I’m getting some jap maple cutings today so what ever you can do to help me get started I would really appreciate it thank you Anthony.
I collected seedlings from under a tree and have been caring for them for over a year. One has now taken off and is almost three feet, growing tall in a very short time. My question is when does it start filling out rather than up. I have gently tied it to a stake in the pot, but it is about to outgrow it… again. I’m not sure where to go from here. Help!
Sir,
Thank U for your very informative article, well written. My question: Do U know a retail mail order source for Japanese Maples on their own roots? If yes, please advise the contact details. I’ve learned that the vast majority of J.Maples are grafted or budded and therefore not on their own roots. But U see, I often have trouble with grafted plants and much prefer on-own-roots plants. And I have read that while most J.Maples do poorly on their own roots and that rooted cuttings are almost impossible to produce, I’ve also read that there is a half dozen or so (including “Seiryu”) that do in fact root well either from cuttings or air-layering. And that such select cultivar trees do well. I’m hoping to buy a few J.Maples that I can grow as major shade trees in full sun in my zone 6B northwest Arkansas garden, said trees on own roots, green summer leaves but nicely colored autumn leaves. And I accept that my target cultivars of J.Maple trees are few. Help ! What to do?
Respectfully submitted,
S. D.
Hi Mike,
I’m curious, what is the best method for seeds that have been dried and packaged? Would you suggest method 1 for those? So they can soak up some of the moisture back?
Hi,
My question is same as the last one! I plan to buy some maple seeds. In that case which method is the best you suggest?
Prerna,
Both methods work, some like the refrigerator method best.
Hello, I am new to this. Ive always wanted to grow a Bonsai Tree, and I just received 3 packets of seeds, Red Maple, Japanese Red Maple Bamboo Leaf, and Blue Maple seeds. I live in Zone 9. I am thinking the Fridge method will be the best method for me, since daily temps here can jump from 32 to 55 but only for another 4–5 weeks, I guess my real question is if you know if these styles all start very similarly or if they each require a different starting method.
thank you.
Chris
Chris,
I would use the fridge method and treat all of the seeds the same. At the same I’d consider buy a few Japanese maple seedlings that are already 6 to 12 inches tall. That way if your efforts with the seeds isn’t good you can still do your bonsi. Seed sources can be iffy at times.
Greetings!
I would like to know how long to let seedlings grow before transplanting them to a larger medium, as well as how long (in general terms) they need before they become ready to put in the ground? I live in the Cental Valley in California.
Best,
Dallas
Dallas,
At about 2″ tall they can be transplanted to individual pots. Then 6 months later in the ground as long as they have plenty of shade.
I have seedling to come up naturally in the ground but they always die if I transplant they die also . what is wrong ?
See my answer to another comment to this article. I answered there.
My seedlings come up in the ground but they always die even if I transplant them . What is the problem ?
Thomas,
Japanese maple seedlings cannot be transplanted from the ground during the growing season unless you can do so without damaging any roots. If you grow them in a flat you can transplant them from the flat when really tiny into cell packs where they can later be slid out with no damage to the roots. A cell pack are the plastic trays like you get when you buy annual flowers. Japanese maple seedlings also need shade when small.
Hi, I’m using method 2 for some seeds I recently acquired. My two questions are: 1. the container I’m using is just a standard food flat food container too thick to poke ventilation holes in to. Is it fine just to leave a corner of the container lifted slightly? 2. Won’t the growing medium (broken up peat pellets) dry if there is ventilation and if it does, should I mist it to keep it moist?
Alisab,
I’d really like to see holes in the bottom so the peat cannot wick up the excess moisture that is going to collect. I suggest drilling holes or a different container. Peat is tricky. It’s difficult to wet and it’s even harder to dry. You should lighten it up with some perlite. The seeds need to dry between waterings so they warm enough to germinate.
Thanks for the advice, I’ll mix in some perlite and and use a different container
Hi,i followed your Method 2,the seeds are now in the fridge but i added some hydrogen peroxide(1 ml 50% in 100ml water) in the mix of mold and perlite.Is this good?I live in South Greece and i’d like to ask if they will survive?Thank you!
George,
The seeds should be fine as long as the medium was never too wet. At 90 days, take the out of the fridge and just let the bag warm up on the counter, they should sprout in the bag.
I recently acquired a few seed and I can only assume they are from last Fall. Will the seed still be viable? I was planning on doing method 2, but since reading through your instructions and other comments I’m not sure if I would just be spending a lot of months waiting for nothing to happen. I have recently found a tree that will be available for gathering seed in the Fall, should I just wait until then and get fresh seed?
Judith,
I’d wait until fall and collect some fresh seed, look around town, find a tree with nice red color and see if you collect seeds from that tree.
I live in So Cal. I have purple Japanese Atropurpureum seeds. When is the best time to plant the seeds as we do not have 90 days of cold. When they are planted should it be in shade or sun? Are the plants going to be purple or different colors
Ralph,
They would be best in the shade, you can sow the seeds anytime but they need to be stratified before you sow them. As per this article.
Hello I d like to know how many seeds than I can plant in the same pot. I bought 10 of them but it s my first time and I have no ideas… I will use the fridge method. Grazie. I live in Manchester UK.
Grazia
Grazia,
Ten seeds can go in a really small area, maybe the size of a cereal bowl or smaller.
HI Mike, i have ordered seeds and is the 1st time i have tried growing myself, i have always bought the trees. you say above that up to 10 seeds can be planted in a small area: Why would you plant so many together? is this to create the ‘forest’ tree grouping? Or to ensure some of the bunch take? Or indeed will they all take? Also as the seeds have yet to arrive i have not seen them, this may seem a silly question but please indulge my ignorance: should they come in the helicopter or already have the ‘wing’ taken off and ready to soak?
Many thanks
Janine UK
Janine,
Your seeds could come either way. We sow them tight together to save space, don’t know which ones will grow and which won’t. Then transplant them to cells or small pots after they germinate.
I bought a bunch of acer palmatum seeds and I’m going to be prepping them for sowing this coming March.
I understand that, by nature of sexual reproduction, although they came from a red acer they will not all come out with fantastic red coloring.
My question is, how soon after germination do the seedlings show their true color so that I may select the ones I wish to keep and which I wish to sell on or give to family or friends?
Duane,
First of all, keep in mind they need sunlight to show their red color so if sowing them inside you might not see the true color until outside. I wouldn’t be in a hurry to do anything with them until at least 12″ tall. By then you should have a pretty good idea which ones have good color. The green ones make great stock for grafting and are in demand for that reason.
hi, I leave in North east ohio and I have a potted seedling that is a total of 8inches. What do I do with it over the winter? I have been given conflicting information. One nursery said put in basement and water one a month and another said to plant the whole pot in a protected spot outside close to house and mulch good. help!
Michelle, don’t put it in the basement. It needs to freeze and go dormant. The second idea is right on target, just bury the whole pot but only to the top rim of the pot. Putting it near the house, maybe where snow lays would be a good place. Snow is a great insulator. A little mulch is also a good idea, about an inch, maybe two.
Thank you!!
I tried all of these methods and only two of the worked. The paper towel idea didn’t work. None of the seeds sprouted and the white towels turned brown with rot. But all of the other methods worked swimmingly. I have potted all of the sprouts that came from those methods and they number about 50-100. But this leads into my question. More than half of my sprouts start out strong at the base then get really skinny, sickly, and weak looking near the top and the leaves. Some look normal though. Are the weak looking seedlings saveable or are they a lost cause?
Edit* I have also put them in sunlight and watered them in the hopes that sprouting in the bag/ fridge just left them a little weak.
Chris,
Think and weak sounds like damping off, the seedlings get skinny at the soil line then fail. Typically damping off is fatal. Air flow over the seedlings helps with this, place a fan near by.
Thanks Mike,
I’ve moved them inside for the moment since where I live has gotten colder. I was taking advantage of the unseasonable warm spell and planted them outside in the warm. What exactly is damping off? And what can I do to stop it in the future?
Leave it to Mother Nature…. I just discovered about 30 seedlings in a planter under one of my maples. Not sure what to do with all those babies!
Sea,
Move them to where you want them but only move them while they are dormant, or dig way around them to not cut any roots.
Hey Mike – thanks for all the info. It is very helpful to say the least. My question is this: I have quite a few seeds that I’ve kept all winter in paper bags outside where it was quite cold. I just recently planted them in seed flats a couple of weeks ago. Do you think it will take the full 90 – 100 days to germinate because the seeds were kept dry all winter is the stratification more about temperature than moisture level?
Thanks in advance for any help, and for all of the great tips!
Robb
Robb,
The stratification is really about moisture level, it takes time for that outer coating to soften up so the seeds can germinate.
Ok, thanks for the info Mike! I’ll be patient with them then and hope that I get some seedlings in a few months.
HI, I PRUCHACED THE MYSTIC BLUE MAPLE BONSAI SEEDS, AND I LIVE IN TEXAS I THINK THE HARDNESS ZONE IS 8B… WHEN IS THE BEST TIME OR METHOD TO GET MY SEEDS STARTED? THIS IS MY FIRST TIME TRYING TO GROW BONSAI. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
Bonnie,
Ideally right now would be good, early April, March would have been better. In your zone you’ll need to give your seedlings plenty of shade.
hi-hey, I want to be sure I’m getting seedlings from my Japanese maple, not the maple from across the street–can you distinguish between the sets of leaves for me?
Lynda,
I really can’t, not in writing. But I’d find seedlings from across the street and compare them. It will become pretty obvious quickly.
the first set of ‘leaves’ doesn’t split, but I know sometimes the 1st set is different on some plants
How long would it take for the blue maple bonsai to get the blue leaves?
Kentrell,
I’ve never heard of Blue Maple Bonsai. Sorry I can’t really offer much. Maybe somebody else?
I’m pretty sure those “bonsai seeds” pictures of sky blue Japanese maples on the internet are a hoax. I’ve got 22 different cultivars in a range of beautiful colors from dark bronze red, dark to yellow green, even orange. Also remember the cultivars are grafted, so with seeds probably 90% will be genetically dominant for the common green Acer palmatum regardless of the parent tree. BUT cross pollinated offspring can surprise you in the fall. I’ve grown seedlings from the same tree, all same green 5-pointed leaves in summer then one turns dark red, one yellow-gold with crimson, and 2 turn the most awesome coral pink-orange! You never know what might swim up in the gene pool, but I have yet to see actual blue.
Tracy,
I couldn’t agree with you more. Thanks for sharing your experience growing Japanese maples from seed.
Loved the article. I just scored on a red seed growing at my office along the parking lot, Many green ones around the property but only the 1 red seed I found. It has 2 leaves on it. I will be so excited if it keeps growing. I had a red maple few years back and gave it to my mom. But when they moved and took it with them to their new property it died. Don’t think it liked the winds at the ocean. Was a gorgeous potted tree, This one will be close to the mountains, and possibly make it back to MN in 10 years, maybe…..
Have fun with them Fras!
Hey i live in india.. Western india and i ordered japanese maple seeds … I want to grow them… They are in my fridge at -17 temp since last 15 days im in doubt of their growth… I hv some more seds can you please instruct me how to grow them
Osheen,
This article is pretty detailed and used by many, many people. It works.
Can you advise a reputable company in the US to buy Japanese maple seeds ?
Lin,
I can only share wholesale sources in our members area, not where the public can see them. http://backyardgrowers.com/join
Do they really need 90 days or is this just to be sure? Will less time work?
Paul,
90 days is really the accelerated method, I don’t think I’d shorten it.
thank you
can i grow them in zone 10 , i can do anything to grow them , but i live in too much heat.
Hassan,
If you shade them you probably can. We have a member, http://backyardgrowers.com/join, in Alabama who has hundreds of them in her yard.
Hi, I’m currently living in area with the cold hardiness of 7 and the maple trees here all have what appears to be ripe seeds. Is this normal? And are the seeds actually viable? I usually live in Vancouver and the seeds on the maples there usually ripen in October.
Toby,
It’s really too early to collect seeds, the embryo is likely not fully developed. Just watch the seeds the collect them in the fall as they turn brown.
Thank you for the article, it was very informative.
Hi — 30 years ago I planted a small Blood Good Japanese maple at our Maine home. We moved away and recently bought this property back after all these years. My original Blood Good is huge and healthy. I had it professionally pruned, it is a stunner. And importantly, it is prolific with seeds. The grounds here are literally an incubator for Blood Good seedlings. Right now I have 4 sturdy seedlings that I am nurturing to maturity. They are about 12″ -24″ high now and growing in the gardens where the seed dropped and germinated. One is deep red, others olive green and paler reds. I’ve tended them over 1 winter since I’ve been back and am thinking of digging them and transplanting them to permanant locations this fall. I am wondering if you have any advice about doing this. And also if you think it’s a good idea to keep propagating the seeds.
Thanks, Kate
Kate,
Just move them when dormant so as to not shock them. Growing them is a good idea, good market for them, but keep in mind, they are not Bloodgood maples, but simply Japanese maple seedlings, some with good color.
Hi, I live in La Paz-Bolivia, what do you think about growing Japanese Maple there?
Eli,
I’m not familiar with the climate, Japanese maples need a cold dormancy period.
Awsum. But the finer points would be better than a novel
Mike I misty got my seeds I live in Ohio and it is now April is it to late to stool do the fridge way if so when should I plant seedlings should I keep them in garage next winter then plant please need help
Misty,
I’d soak them for 48 hours, start with warm water, change it once, put them in the fridge for a 45 to 60 days then sow in a flat.
Dear Sir,
I have bought some seeds of the following Japanese Bonsai Trees as under:
1) Yellow and Pink Banana Seeds Bonsai
2) Mini Grape Bonsai Tree Seeds
3) Foliage Plants Bonsai Maple Green Seeds
4) Bonsai Maple Red & Green Seeds
Now! it is 18th Day of April 2018, what should i do with the seeds… Please guide me little bit.. I shall be very thankful to you for your help in this regard.
Just follow the guide lines on this page for the Japanese maples and google seed germination database to get details on the rest.
It is nice to know I am not the only one who has a love for Japanese maples.
I appreciate your enthusiasm to help others like me to want to grow a garden to keep or sell.
My question is once you cut a seed to see if it is viable, can you still plant it?
Mike,
No, once you cut a seed it’s spent. You just cut a few to see how many are good and how many are not. Or just sow them all and hope for the best.
I just need to know if Japanese maple tree is the same as Red maple bonsai tree ?
Probably, but only the botanical name will tell you for sure. Red maples, acer rubrum are very large trees unlike Japanese maple trees.
I am the beneficiary of my neighbor’s Japanese Maple (climate reference: I’m in San Francisco). Seedlings sprouted up in my lawn 2-3 years ago (they didn’t all come up at once). I dug up and saved three of them, put each in a pot for their first year, and they are now in the ground for the past year or so. The one that is in the sunniest spot is about 2 feet high now, but… The main trunk goes up about 6″ then divides into three (originally four) equal-sizes branches, so it’s rather rangy. The fourth branch stopped growing from the tip when it was about 6″ long, but it’s leaves are still healthy). None of these branches are sprouting any side growth… it’s all from the tips. Should I prune off one or two branches, or just leave it alone? I’m assuming that as the tree ages, the branches will become heavier and more upright. any advice? They all seem pretty darn happy!
Janis,
It’s probably a good idea to trim the tree lightly to encourage it to fill in.
I have been trying to keep the seedlings that started to grow in my yard alive. I took several of what I thought were the best and gently picked them from the ground and placed them in pots. Last year I was able grow one that reached 12in, however it didn’t survive the winter (i left it outside). This year I tried to do the same thing and of several that I planted I only have one remaining alive. Is there a trick to keeping one healthy and growing? This one isn’t growing as fast as the one I had last year.
Hilary,
A light soil mix that drains well, but then you have to stay on top of the watering. Come fall plant in your garden.
This article could be trimmed by about 25 percent of the word count and be much better. Please consider it.
Seriously? I think the article is great – just enough information and detail.
Hi Mike
When growing from seed, although it’s effectively a gamble to what you are going to get, is it actually possible for a seed to produce a seeding from a particular variety e.g could a seed from a standard ‘blood good’ produce an osakazski or orange dream? How would you go about correctly identifying the variety of seedling?
Many Thanks
James,
It would be highly unlikely. Seedlings from bloodgood are typically red or green but there will always be some variation. A seedling could never be identified as a named variety unless it were totally unique and a new introduction.
This was a excellent informative post you have shared on this page about the growing japanese maples from seed but you must put it way to the back of the refrigerator because it’s usually colder back there and the medium might freeze. Although freezing won’t hurt the seeds, it will slow down the stratification process..
Thanks.
So I’m late in the year and I have two questions . Should I just work on getting materials and info and more seeds until the timing is better and also I need detailed info about grafting and budding as I am interested in producing as close as I can to the parent plant . Coral trunk , purple ghost , just to name a few . Do you offer any detailed books for sale on growing these stranger varieties . Thank you
Can you recommend any detailed literature on grafting Japanese maples ?
Douglas,
See this; https://japanesemaplelovers.com/how-to-graft-japanese-maple-trees/
I have a Japanese acer it seems to have decided to grow seedlings for the first time in about 10 years it is only the 15 th June 2019 and it is covered in seed can you advise me what to do, thanks Fiona
This article explains it in detail.
Thank you for the information, bookmarking you site
Lots of great information here! Thanks so much for that. My question is I just bought coral bark Japanese maple seeds that should be here in a day (8/29) I live in zone 7b so would I start the process now for method 2? Should I wait till about October?
Not method 2. Sorry I meant 1. Fridge I’m not sure we would get cold enough for outside till mid nov or so.
Devan,
For method number 1 you can start them now.
I think I confused myself. Method 1 is outside. We are currently still having high 90 degree days. Should I plant not for outside or go with method 2 in the fridge?
Hello Acer Community. I am putting some seeds to bed for the winter. About three hundred red and green japanese maples.
So it took some time but I scarified, yes tweezers, time and 22o grit sandpaper. Scarified, soaked in warm water, and now, cold stratified, some in seed tray outside and some in the fridge.
Has anyone heard of or tried scarfing Acer Palmatum seeds with improved sprouting results. Appreciate all your replies and responses. Thank you.
Bonsai Karl
Hi Mike.
Thanks for an informative site. My question is regarding timing for stratifying and planting. I have obtained seeds from a friend who collected them in London and brought them to me in Cape Town South Africa. So it is now summer here, and I have just obtained the seeds a couple of weeks ago. My question is when is best to stratify them in the refrigerator and when is best to remove them for planting? I was wondering whether I should wait to stratify them through our winter here in the Southern Hemisphere which is in 6 months time and then only attempt to germinate them by our springtime late next year? Do you think this is the better plan?
Naseema
Naseema,
I agree, probably better to wait and do them at the beginning of winter, start the stratification then.
Hi, I’m wondering how long I can leave the maple seeds in the fridge if they haven’t sprouted? I think I put them in the fridge too close to summer, and if it does take them three months to sprout, it will probably be autumn by the time they do. So I’m wondering, if they haven’t sprouted by the end of winter, could I then just plant them in spring? Or if they do sprout in autumn or winter, can I pot them but keep them inside?
Thank you!
Katy,
come spring I’d sow them outside and hopefully the heat will trigger them to germinate.
Awesome thank you so much for replying!
Hi, this info is excellent, thanks. First time on the site and I’m delighted I’ve stumbled upon it.
Is it too late to start sratifying maples now that it is end of January I’ve bought a few different varieties and I’m worried that if I wait till October, they wo t be viable anymore.
Bryan,
I think you can still do them now, they should do just fine.
Hello, I just purchased some Japanese maple seeds and should get them in a couple days. I am a couple months late for my zone (last frost is around May 15th), but I figure I can still start the seeds now and just plant them later in the season. If I do this, will the young seedlings need protection and/or to be moved into the garage over the winter? I’m in Zone 6b. Thanks, can’t wait to start this process!!
Amanda,
That’s difficult to say, but in nature little tiny seedlings survive the winter all the time. Just make sure they are not too wet or too dry and probably would be best planted in the garden for the winter.
Thanks Mike!
Hi. I have a slightly different question on growing JM. I’m intrigued with creating JM with multi-stems maybe 3 or 5 max. preferable branching above the sol line. It’s currently April 9 and I am in the San Francisco Bay Area. I have many JM plants that are into their 2nd spring and a large bunch that are about to spout from seedling. As an experiment last year, I clipped a couple of sapling when they were about 2″ tall. These have become double stems with a tiny remnant of the cut stem in the middle. Assume the remnant will soon fall off. Now am trying to go from 2 to 3 or more stems. Do you have any suggestions? Thank i advance.
Dan,
To get them to produce more stems the best thing you can do is let them flush, let the new growth get maybe 6″ tall, then simply clip the very tops of of those upright branches. This should encourage the trees to produce more branches below where you cut. Just keep in mind to not remove too much because you want as many leaves as possible for photosynthesis. Then as the trees grow larger you can start removing some of the small branches down low that make the tree look “cluttered”, that way you can see the beauty of the multiple stems.
Method #1 worked well for me, I picked off’ seeds from a tree near home and immediately put them in the sold, not even picking off the ‘wings’. A couple months later, I am starting to see baby Japanese Maples with it’s beautiful color growing in a random pot I buried them in earlier in the Fall.
That’s awesome! Enjoy them.
Thanks for the info. I’m going to give it a try. A Japanese Maple I planted in 1998 is producing lots of pink seed pods for the first time this year (2020). It’s a Mama!
Steve,
That’s awesome! Mark your calendar so you get the timing right.
Hello, I have 12 laceleaf Japanese maple seedlings growing under the parent tree. They have one set of true leaves and are 2-3 inches tall. I want to take them up and get them into their own pots. I have 3” peat pots and seedling soil. When can I do this? Our weather is cool still with low 70’s once a week.
Thanks
Denise,
Ideally when the seedlings are dormant and it’s probably too late for that now. You can try and move a few without doing root damage. If you cut or break roots the seedlings are likely to fail.
HI, I just got seeds today. I am from Bulgaria (zone 6), it is around 25C during the day and between 8-13 C during the night. I was wondering if you can advise me on what should I do. Should I … do nothing till the Autumn and then sow them and leave them outside for the winter or try the fridge method keeping them for 90 days and then sow. This means they will sow around Aug, so I will probably need to keep them inside for the first winter. The other thing that is curious is that they came only seeds without the “case” around them… Any advice is highly appreciated.
Yana,
At this point I think I’d keep them cool and dry until fall and sow them then.
we have some “trees” that have come up under our maples that are 1″ to 4″ tall. we have dug them up and put them in small containers, and they are growing… can you tell us how long before they will be 1′ tall? 2′ tall? 3′ tall? 4′ tall?
Bryan,
First of all, they should be in a really good potting soil that drains well or they will be stunted. Growth rate? Maybe 10″ a year.
Mike, thank you for sharing your expertise. We will follow your points. I will be 75 in one month…may get to see them planted in yard some day…lol.
Good Morning I live in South Africa 70kms south of Durban which is considered a sub tropical area, I have ordered from overseas, (USA, CHINA ?) Japanese Maple seeds which I hope to try and germinate when they arrive in July August which is approaching the end of our winter. I enjoyed your very informative article, should I follow your instructions on germination or because of where I live I should change something?
Thanks Alan
Alan,
I don’t think you need to change anything, you are at the end of winter and that’s just about when we do them, about half way through winter normally. You should still have plenty of time to get them growing.
So can i just put the seeds in a tray with compost and put them in a greenhouse to mimic zone 5 im in zone 4 and it still freezes in the greenhouse so it should be cold enough right?
Bill,
You can, sow them in the fall and they should germinate in the spring when it warms.
Hello Mike.
If Bloodgood Maple or most any of the colorful Japanese Maple tree seeds are not true to the tree type, how does buying bare rooted maples become true such as Bloodgood? Secondly, if I planted seeds that were from a particular maple and the color and shape of the leaves match the description, would it be true to the type? I’ve read that not all of the flowers on maples are cross bred.
Last, if seeds aren’t guaranteed to be the same as the source, is there any way to plant and resell as a particular type of tree?
I also understand that clones of clones of clones become very week trees.
I’m concerned and confused about accuracy.
Don,
Any Japanese maple grown from seed will never be a named variety because they will not be a clone of the parent plant. I’ve never read or heard that clones of clones make for a weak tree. I’d say that most of the named Japanese maples being sold today are clones of clones. As explained in the article seedlings will be acer palmatum (green leaves) acer palmatum autropurepeum (red leaves) and possibly acer dissectum (cut leaves but probably a boring color).
If you want to sell bloodgood or oshi beni you need to graft those varieties onto a seedling.
Hello!
Recently my mom bought me a bonsai growing kit from seeds and it happened to be Japanese maple, one of my favorite trees. It came with six seeds in total so I’m going to try each of your methods!
I wanted to mention that there were instructions in the kit but many people said in their reviews of it that that method didn’t work so I’m trying yours instead. Around June 12 they should be sprouting!
Good luck Daphne!
Hi,
I collected seeds last fall and I have them in the fridge now. I never took off the wings.
Should I soak them and plant them immediately? Or should I soak them and wait another 90 days?
Thanks!
Liz,
Your timing is way off. I’d plant them outside in late September, but collect more seeds in October, soak them for 24 to 48 hours and plant them outside right after soaking.
We had a 30 years-old green Japanese maple tree, and it produced a lot of seeds. The seeds fell on the ground and germinated, and some young trees became 6″. One of our friend was a Master Gardener, and when I told her about those trees. She brought several master gardeners and dug those young trees and sold them at their sales event.
I cut this mother tree 10 years ago, as its branches covered our house, and moss covered the roof.
One of a child tree planted at another place started to produce seeds, but I found only one grand-child tree on the ground. Should I clear the ground to get more grand-child seedlings? What is the percentage of the seeds that fell on the ground, germinate, and become seedlings without human intervention?
Toshimi,
I’d say the percentage is going to be small because those seeds need a cold treatment and ideal conditions to germinate. Many of them won’t germinate until the second year, if they survive on the ground that long.
I live in Oregon, and we have showers almost every day. If Method 1 is used, should we cover the flat in which seeds are sowed by a plastic sheet in order to prevent the flat becomes too wet?
Toshimi,
Too wet is not good. The seeds need to dry and warm up between watering. But covering it could create a very unhealthy humid condition. It would be better under some kind of a roof and watered as needed.
Method 2
> Step 3. After soaking in water for 24 hours you need to mix the seeds with a combination of sand and peat moss, or a seed starting mix that contains some extra perlite.
I have sand and peat moss. However, the peat moss was bought 20 years ago, It was in a large bag, and a half of it was used at that time. After that the bag was left at the corner of the garden. I checked it several days ago, and it was black and totally wet.
Can I still use it, or is it rotten an useless?
In another article written by you, you are recommending to use top soil to provide moisture. What is best?
Hi,
In the spring I noticed small trees growing naturally in the lawn. I transplanted them to a flat and about 1/2 of the flat survived until the fall. I live in New England so they dropped their leaves in the October timeframe as expected. I understand they need to stay dormant naturally, but should I leave the flat outside in through winter snow, etc.? I could move them into a cool garage. This might sound silly, but is sunlight needed during their dormancy? Thanks!
Ray,
They don’t need sunlight but the garage might be too dry. Covered with snow they would be quite happy. I’d just put the flat in a protected area and hope it stays snow covered.
Could some one please indicates me an Acer palmatum vendor, that sell seeds and are trustworthy ? Thanks guys.
Murilo,
We have at least one member, http://backyardgrowers.com/join, that sells Japanese maple seeds. Very reputable grower.
I planted about 10 seeds in the uk, left them in a tray in the garden, it wasn’t until two years later that one of them germinated! It grew to about 2 inches before autumn and lost its two leaves, hopefully spring will see it sprout some more! Does it need any feed or anything at this stage?
David,
Once it leafs out in the spring you can fertilize it with a weak solution of Miracle Grow or Peter’s liquid.
It’s still May in the UK and for the first time my tree has produced seeds, reading this post I am assuming they will be no good, is that correct?
Sandra,
Not true, just leave them on the tree until they mature, probably in the fall. They have to turn brown.
Your blog post on growing Japanese maples from seed was informative and inspiring. The step-by-step instructions, tips on seed stratification, creating optimal growing conditions, and embracing the uniqueness of each seedling were particularly valuable. I look forward to applying your advice and starting my own journey with these beautiful trees. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
This is helpful and interesting, thanks for sharing! I’ve always admired Japanese Maples and now feel confident enough to try growing them from seed.
I have a question for you 🙋♂️ , do Japanese Maple seeds need Scarification in order to germinate? Do they need Scarification? Do they need it? Yes or no? Do Japanese Maple seeds need to be scratched? I never heard of scratching Japanese Maple seeds with a metal file and sandpaper when they have a very hard seed coat, I have never heard of nicking Japanese Maple seeds. I hope you can answer all of my questions.
They need stratification, whether or not you scarify them is up to you. Any nick in the outer coating will make the stratification more effective.
I had a JM tree in central Virginia that produce many seeds and the seeds would germinate and produce great seedlings. My mother has a JM tree in eastern NC that also produces many seeds. But, I can’t seem to get many of these seeds to germinate and none will produce seedlings.
Am I doing something wrong or is it possible that my mother’s JM tree is a hi-bred that doesn’t produce viable seeds?
Brian,
Do a cut test when collect the seeds in the fall, inside the embryo should be nice an green, not dark or hollow. If so, they should germinate if you follow these instructions, they need a cold treatment.
I collected seeds from a Japanese maple tree in our back yard at the end of October, I cut a few of them. I found a small amount of material whose color was that of the edible part of a nut. The seed was 4 to 5 mm long and 3 to 4 mm wide. Are these seeds healthy?
Toshimi,
I’d cut a few more, maybe from a different tree so you can distinguish between viable and non viable. Wish I had a photo but I don’t.
I now can tell the difference of viable seeds and non-viable seeds..
Cut a seed into two parts at its center. The cross section of a viable seed looks like .that of the cross section of a boiled egg although very small. If a seed is healthy, the small disc in greenish cream color at the center, which is an embryo, is surrounded by a ring in cream color, which is crust, as the yolk of an egg is surrounded by the white. A seed which lacks embryo is non-viable.
A seed that possesses healthy embryo is round and cannot be flattened even pressed by fingers..
Hi I love growing plants and making gardens. I am quite interested in your information. I have green fingers and have considered to make a small nursery for extra income
Chris,
Just got to http://www.mikesbackyardnursery.com/ to get on the mail list and follow along with what we have going on. Or test drive the members area.
If I prefer to grow Japanese Maples that have been grafted, is there a Backyard Grower who might sell me 20 or 30 liners?
Rob,
There sure is. We have at least two or three growers that supply our group with grafted maples, always a huge selection. Usually $16 to $20 each. Check out our members area. https://secure.backyardgrowers.com/business-center